Entrusting his bedroll to a coolie, Shankar went up to the Parcels Office to collect his rest of his belongings. It felt strange to have someone else carry his things.The officer-in-charge took one look at his Pan-Am label covered suitcases and gave him priority clearance. Shankar gathered his stuff and walked to the old bus depot, just across the road from the train station.
The bus depot looked the way it looked ten years back - ancient. Nothing changes in Orissa – Shankar smiled to himself. The place was a little cleaner than before, perhaps. But the busses were the same old, small ST buses that created a lot of noise and even more smoke. And were always packed with passengers like tins of sardine.
Shankar noted the obvious westernisation. More people were in shirts and trousers than in traditional Oriya Dhoti- Kurtas. Lit cigarettes dangled nonchalantly from many lips.The juggernaut of progress, smiled Shankar to himself.
His expensive luggage and his dapper suit cowed the conductor of the bus into giving him the best seat. As he squeezed his rather tall frame into the cramped seat, he realized with a jolt how badly spoilt he has been by the West, in the last decade.
Ten years. So much water down the Kathjodi Bridge. So much missed. So much to catch up on.
He bought a few local newspapers from a vendor, weighed them in his hand, glanced at the headlines – not bad. Not exactly The Herald Tribune, but at least the ink didn’t smudge anymore.
The bus started with a shivering roar. Soon the town of Cuttack melted away to unending golden fields of rice. Harvesting was in full swing. In a few fields only the stubble remained. The rest gleamed like a carpet of gold under the weak winter sun.
“Unforgettable….” Shankar hummed Sinatra under his breath, as his eyes moistened suddenly.
“Good harvest this year” offered his co-passenger
“ Huh… sorry, say that again?” Shankar started.
“I said ..looks like we’re in for a good harvest!” repeated the gentleman. Government official, guessed Shankar, from the quiet confidence of his demeanour.
“Un-hun..looks like it” he nodded.
“ Where are you headed?”
“Rani Sasan” Shankar sighed. Welcome to India, he thought. Where everybody’s business is your business.
“Is that your village? Do you have family there?”
“Yes” .
“ I see. ..I remember someone telling me that it’s a very old brahmin settlement. Pretty well known in these parts, actually.” he offered, helpfully.
The bus came to halt after travelling for a couple of hours. It looked like in the middle of an abandoned weekly market. The name of the place came to Shankar suddenly - Kandarpur.
He remembered it from his youth. There weren’t so many shops back then. It was just a dusty, non-descript cross road. One of the roads went to Rani. Sasan, his village. The other went on east. God knows where.
Most of the passengers got down to stretch their legs a bit and sip some hot tea.
“Come, let’s have some chai!” invited the official.
“Why not?” capitulated Shankar and followed him out of the bus.
They went up to a tea stall and official barked at the owner.
“ Two special teas.., and make it fast!”
“ Would you like some snacks with your tea?” he asked, turning to Shankar.
“No, no, nothing else. Thank you so very much” said Shankar.
The anxious owner of the tea stall jumped up from the tin chair on which he was perched and offered it to Shankar.
Shankar shook his head at him and looked back at the road.
An old man sipping his tea in the next stall was staring unblinkingly at him.
Shankar felt uncomfortable under his intent gaze.
A steaming cup of tea before his face was a welcome distraction. The official offered him a pack of cigarettes. Shankar took out his own cigarette case. His companion noted the sterling silver case that snapped open to reveal a neatly laid out row of thin, white cigarettes that looked frightfully expensive. The official was reluctant but Shankar insisted and they both lit up filter tipped camels. they sat and smoked their cigarettes and sipped their tea in silence for sometime.
Suddenly sensing someone Shankar whirled around. The old man who was staring at him before was now just a couple of feet away, peering at him. He was a powerfully built man, his torso wrapped in a green chaddar over his dhoti. A towel with red and white checks was tied tied loosely over his head. He looked like any farmer.
Now the official too noticed the stare of the old man and snapped “ “Hey, you…what do you want?”
“ Nothing sir,” said the old man, suddenly embarrassed ” Just looking at this Sahib here” With that he slunk away to a Paan Shop nearby.
Shankar and the official walked back to the bus now filling up with passengers after the tea break. The driver gave an impatient squeeze to the horn, hurrying everyone up.
“ So…are you on your way back from abroad?” The official asked him as they sat down in their seats.
Shankar nodded and smiled.
Suddenly there was a glint of interest in the official eye.
“And people back home, in your village, in Rani sasan, they know you are on your way back, right? They know you are coming?”
“Un-hun..no” Shankar shook his head, looking out of the window.
The bus was raising a cloud of dust in it’s wake. A canal ran beside the road. People bathing in it’s ghats. People walked on the narrow dusty path along side the tarmac, to villages and markets miles away. People on cycles too.
A couple of overloaded trucks roared past the Bus. The startled bullocks of a cart, started running up the steep canal embankment. The people in the bus gasped collectively as the bullock cart driver fought to control the terrified beasts. Slowly, the bullock cart lurched back to the edge of the narrow road.
“ You said you have family in Rani Sasan, right?” asked the official.
“ Yes”
“ Whom do you know there?”
“ Bamdev Satpathy.”
“ Oh I know him… Famous headmaster, now retired… How’s he is related to you?”
“My father” said Shankar.
Suddenly someone in the seat behind Shankar started yelling “ Stop the bus! Stop the bus!” on the top of his voice. Everyone turned to look at him. The driver swore as he brought the bus to a a screeching halt.
Like a flash, the man in the green chaddar was at Shankar”s feet, grabbing his knees tightly, tears streaming down his face. “Budhaa Babu! I knew it was Budhaa Babu. I knew it. I have been watching you from Cuttack. You came back? After ten years? You can’t recognize me? I am Shinga!”
Shankar gaped at the old man who knew his pet name "Budhaa" ....which meant literally, the Old. In Orissa, in those days of high child mortality, it was common practice to call the young 'Budhaa' or 'Old' so as to escape the attention of Yama, the God of death.
The astonished passengers of the bus gaped at Shankar. Who is this stranger? Why has he not been back to his village in ten years? Where was he all this time?
As Shankar squirmed to get to his feet. Shinga physically carried him out of the bus and set him down on the road outside. Shankar, remembered him clearly now. Shingha was his father’s Man Friday. Tales of Shinga’s strength were folklore in his village.
He chided Shinga gently “ What are you, doing, Shinga? We are on a bus. People are watching. Go, sit in the bus. I am coming back for good. Be calm now” And Shinga calmed down and went back smiling to sit in his place. Shankar got back to his seat and the bus started moving again.
“ Ten years away abroad...that's a long time.." noted the official.
Shankar nodded.
“Whereabouts? The States?”
Shankar nodded. The States. The U.S. of A had a new abbreviation everywhere.
“ What were you doing there? Working?” The official asked.
“ Yeah...sort of” said Shankar and turned to look out of the window. Over the roar of the bus he could hear Shinga, somewhere behind him, regaling the passengers with stories of the returning prodigal son.
The bus reached Rani Sasan. “ Sasan” means “to rule”. A sasan is an old, autonomus brahmin settlement, which ruled itself. Even the king had no say in the ruling of sasans. The “Panchayat’ ruled them.
Shinga got down from the bus first. The conductor climbed on the roof of the bus and untied Shankar’s luggage and handed them down and was tipped generously by Shankar.
Shinga took all the heavy luggage on his head, pushing Shankar away “ I am old, Budha babu, but not that old!”
Sweat glistened on shinga’s brows under the weight of the luggage. “ What’s in it, Budha Babu?” He asked.
“ Gold bullions” Laughed Shankar as he tipped the conductor.
His co-passenger shook hands with him “ I'm Braja Sundar Nayak. I work in the State Agriculture Department. Here on inspection. The inspection bunglow is just a couple of kilometers away”
“ Shankar Satpathy..do drop in if you are passing by” Shankar invited him.
The bus roared away in a cloud of dust. Shankar saw every passenger craning back to catch a glimpse of him. He watched till the bus disappeared round a bunch of trees.
Then he turned and looked at the village that he has dreamt of every night, for the past ten years.